Is that Doner a Gyro?

When traveling to a new destination, my biggest fear is making a complete ass of myself.  Typically, when planning for a trip, part of my prep ritual is to research the history, culture and etiquette of the destination.  This not only enriches my travels and overall immersion, but also helps me to avoid being that tourist. I know you’ve all seen them: loud, obnoxious and generally insensitive to anything different. But before you think that I’m taking the high-road on this, I must confess, I’ve been guilty of a few personal transgressions too.

I like to think that I’m relatively successful blending in and “doing as the locals do”, but every now and then, my horrible habits bubble to the surface…

Case in point, during my last trip to Turkey I stuck the proverbial “foot in my mouth”. Normally I would include my wife in my anecdotes, but for this particular story she has disavowed any involvement and has forbidden me to use the word “we”.  But, then again, she hasn’t subscribed to the blog so she’ll be none the wiser.

After a long overnight flight to Istanbul, our first critical mission was to get some food. Considering it was early morning and options were a bit limited, we decided to get the lay of the land around the Sultanahmet district and if lucky, scrounge up some local chow. As we walked through the neighborhood we spotted a man skewering slabs of raw, marinated meat on a vertical spit. Pounds and pounds layered upon each other in preparation for the hungry throngs that would inevitably arrive. Being from the U.S., I immediately recognized it for what it was and so, armed with my knowledge learned from Wikipedia, I strolled confidently up to the counter and asked…are those Gyros you’re preparing?

Doner Kebab Preparation

It was a long silence (in reality, it was probably only a few seconds). The man finally gave me a wry smile, accompanied with a sidelong glance, as he pointed to a sign, and said, “no…it’s a Doner”

It certainly wasn’t the end of the world, but embarrassment is merciless (and my wife’s memory is unforgiving). Thankfully the gentleman understood my honest mistake, that or I’m convincing myself it wasn’t the first time he’s been asked that question. Whichever it was, he was very polite in addressing my faux pas and didn’t draw attention to my blunder.

Needless to say, I am now hell-bent on determining what made the two dishes different besides geography. More importantly though, I want to save you guys the same embarrassment.

The Gyro and Doner Difference

Both the Doner and Gyro are staples in their respective countries and can be found virtually everywhere. Turkey has the Doner, or Doner Kebab, whereas Greece has the Gyro. At first glance their appearances seem very similar in presentation and preparation.   The columns of meat can usually be seen marinating slowly on a rotating spit with thin slices being carved off periodically. Both dishes are generally served with Pita bread, and complemented with different sauces and salads.   Apparently, they were so similar that Greece even used the word Doner at one point, only to eventually replace it with the term Gyro. Confused? So was I! Believe it or not though, they are unique with their own distinct taste.

Doner Kebab on vertical spits

The Doner Kebab, is a Turkish dish usually made from either lamb, veal, or chicken and is generally served with flatbread, onions, tomatoes, hot sauce, and pickles. As fast food the meat, sauces and garnish are all tightly wrapped in a pita making it easier to walk and eat without skipping a beat. On the plate version though, it can be served open face with additional goodies like hot tomato sauce and sheep butter – think Iskender kebab

Iskendar Kebab

The Greek Gyro on the other hand, is typically made with fatty moist pork, tomatoes,  and onions wrapped tightly by an oily grilled Pita bread. Like the Doner, chicken and veal are occasionally found, but not as prevalent as pork. The most notable difference from the Doner is the inclusion of fried potatoes and tzatziki sauce. The Greek Gyro seems slightly less healthy because of the added fat and frying, but it’s unbelievably flavorful – who doesn’t love potatoes. Reminds me of a California burrito (more on that in another post :))

Greek Gyro

Think it’s starting to make sense? Wrong again! To make it all the more confusing, variations exist worldwide with places like the U.S. and Canada using the terms interchangeably and with much flexibility. Even the Doner Kebab has multiple variations within Turkey where it’s sometimes served with rice or with cheese.  To set themselves apart,  you’ll even find restaurants calling Doners by its Arabic name “Shawarma”.

Still, embarrassment and confusion aside, we were first in line a few hours later. You don’t need to know what it’s called to enjoy it. I know we didn’t.

What were your most embarrassing moments on the road?

The post Is that Doner a Gyro? appeared first on Blaze Your Adventure.

Above Image courtesy of Giuseppe Milo

No one will hold it against you if you thought Istanbul was the capital of Turkey (I know I did – it’s actually Ankara). This sprawling economic metropolis spans across both Europe and Asia with a cityscape chock-full of Byzantium and Ottoman era architecture.

When my wife and I first arrived, we immediately noticed a city of immaculate contrasts: A juxtaposition of Old World and New World architecture with both European and Asian influences. We saw trams chugging along past 15th century bazaars; we saw modern fixtures, like ATMs and restaurants, sitting side by side with Mosques and Palaces.

As we checked into our hostel in the Sultanahmet district, we knew immediately that we were in trouble! Istanbul is a menagerie of sights, restaurants, shopping and experiences and three days was not nearly enough time!

But with a fistful of Lira (ATMS are very accessible) we sure as hell were going to try.

For those with limited time like my wife and I, Sultanahmet, on the Eminonu side, is a great starting point which itself is a Unesco World Heritage site. In addition to having accommodations for all budgets, Sultanahmet is also central to a number of popular sights all within walking distance. The Old City is street after street of architectural treasures and you can easily wander aimlessly amongst the old buildings and alleyways.

Here are some of the things we enjoyed while visiting Istanbul, and hopefully you will too:

Eminönü side:

Sultan Ahmed Mosque aka The Blue Mosque

Located on the edge of the Sultanahmet district, the Blue Mosque is an absolute must for anyone traveling to Istanbul. It’s also hard to ignore considering you can pretty much see its giant dome and 6 minarets jutting into the sky from any point in the city. We tried to hit this early in the morning, after the first prayer service, but were surprised that a few hundred other people had the same idea! Still, bear the line and you won’t be disappointed. The interior is equally as grand as the exterior (try to count the windows). The females are provided a shawl to cover their hair and shoulders, if needed.

Hagia Sophia aka AyaSofya

Right across from the Blue Mosque is Hagia Sofia, a much older and equally as impressive structure. Now converted to a museum, we were ecstatic to be able to indulge our inquisitive need to explore. First thing we noticed is how richly ornate the interior is; large imperial doors, numerous arched openings, and gorgeous mosaics. There’s also an accessible upper level that provides a great vantage point for the whole room. We really enjoyed Ayasofya, as it didn’t feel rushed and we were able to take our time to enjoy all the little details.

Kapaliçarşi aka The Grand Bazaar

No trip is complete without some shopping (according to my wife anyways). One of the oldest, and largest covered markets, The Grand Bazaar is a cacophony of sights and sounds. I honestly can’t remember all the details; I think we spent more time trying to find our way back from where we came. Although we did end up seeing the same shops street by street and it does get overwhelming at times, the Bazaar is a fun and fascinating place to observe a part of Istanbul’s history. If you’re not careful, you can burn hours away here.

Misir Çarşisi aka Spice Bazaar aka Egyptian Bazaar

For those whom need another induction into Istanbul, the Spice Bazaar won’t disappoint. Not nearly as large as its more famous cousin, the Spice Bazaar still has its charms. With stalls filled with colorful spices and all things Turkish, the bazaar epitomizes the romanticism of Istanbul.  We did notice that there were more locals here and that everyday items, like groceries, could also be purchased.

Topkapi Palace

A massive Ottoman palace on the eastern peninsula of where the Golden horn begins, Topkapi Palace is well worth at least 4 hours. Just walk east from the Sultanahmet and you can’t miss it (it’s actually right behind AyaSofya). No matter what time you go, you’ll probably have to wait in line. We arrived at 9am, and still waited about 30 minutes for ticketing. Also worth mentioning, there are 3 museums, each requiring their separate passes: the main palace (30 TL museum), the Harem ( 15 TL), and Hagia Irene (20 TL). We were on a budget, so we decided to pass on Hagia Irene.

Some of the exhibits also have a dress code prohibiting shorts, and exposed shoulders. I usually bring convertible pants, while my wife carries a travel scarf, so fortunately we were prepared. They do provide coverings in case you forget – so you won’t have to make that long walk back down the hill.

Image courtesy of alex.ch

Image courtesy of artorusrex

Image courtesy of alex.ch

Basilica Cistern

Amidst all the other high-profile sites like the Blue Mosque and AyaSofya, it’s really easy to overlook the Cistern. Word of advice…go see it! It’s absolutely a worthwhile stop on the way to the Grand Bazaar or even after AyaSofya. This place is awesome and we almost missed it! I literally led us in circles for a good 20 minutes and even had to break for lunch! The entrance is quite nondescript resembling a gendarmerie station and certainly belies what’s underneath. First thing you’ll notice as you enter this underground temple is how immense the chamber is, the second thing you’ll notice are the rows and rows of colonnades. The line and crowds are reasonable (I think we waited maybe 10 minutes) so you can easily make it a quick detour.

Beyoğlu Side:

Taksim Square

Coming from Sultanahmet, we felt as though we’ve been transported through time. With western trappings, like McDonalds and the Ritz –Carlton, it was easy for us to forget our mosque-raiding from the day before. Taksim Square is incredibly easy to get to. Virtually all the public transport systems have a transfer point there. We took the tram from Sultanahmet to Kabastas, and then shot up on the Funicular to Taksim. Sadly, we didn’t spend too much time here, as we were passing through to Istiklâl Caddesi and beyond. But we did need to make a pit stop for a Kizilkayalar wetburger!

The Kizilkayalar Wet burger

This should be an entry in my Istanbul food blog, but because I personally enjoyed the “wet burger” so much, it warranted a place on my must-do list. Specifically the Kizilkayalar wet burger. First impressions, I ain’t gunna lie, I was a bit scared when I approached the cloudy steamy burger sauna and saw sweaty, pre-made moisture-logged buns stacked to the brim. Finally coming to grips with my perception of what a burger should be, I mustered the courage to try one. And I am so glad I did! The texture was as expected, but the tomato broth soaked buns were a pleasant surprise. There wasn’t much in the sense of meat, but a thin disproportioned patty. However, I could almost presume this was purposeful to keep the meat from overpowering the flavor of the buns. But I digress. Long story short, try one when you get chance! Read more at my food blog.

Istiklâl Caddesi

Probably the most famous pedestrian street in Istanbul, we found Istiklâl Caddesi to be an intoxicating afternoon walk that we thoroughly enjoyed. A hodgepodge of architectural styles from the 19th century to more recent days, the buildings corral the street creating a veritable tunnel of designer clothing stores, and baklava pastry shops. Within the not-so-secret alleyways you’ll even find pubs and rooftop Nargile (hookah) cafes to whittle away the hot afternoon sun – just like we did! Normally I wouldn’t suggest a shopping strip as a must-do, but Istiklâl Caddesi is pretty iconic for the Beyoğlu side of Istanbul. You’ll have fun, or the very least come out the end a few pounds heavier from the Turkish delights.

The best way to approach Istiklâl is to start from Taksim square and head towards Galata Tower and Sultanahmet. It’ll save you from having to double back after a long day of walking.

Image courtesy of G.ozcan

Kallavi Nargile Café

Whether you call it Hookah, Shisha, or Nargile, for us it was hands down one of the fondest memories of Istanbul that we have. In need of rest and respite from the afternoon sun, we literally stumbled upon Kallavi Nargile Cafe. Located on the 3rd or 4th floor, Kallavi has a welcoming outdoor terrace to drink cay (Turkish tea, pronounced Chai) and people watch. What made our experience particularly memorable was the opportunity to hang out with the locals playing checkers all while puffing on our apple flavored tobacco. Tobacco offerings are probably similar elsewhere, but I can’t speak enough praises about the venue, and the overall experience.

I think I’m doing something wrong…

My wife enjoying a bit too much

Galata Tower

A few streets away from the southern end of Istiklâl Caddesi, and heading towards the Karakoy tram stop, is Galata Tower. It’s difficult to miss the stone tower as it looms over most of the surrounding buildings. Sadly we did not go up the tower and in retrospect we wish we had, as we’ve heard amazing things about the view. Still, if you don’t go up like us, the witch-hat styled roof and position of the Tower is a visually imposing structure worth it’s own set of photos.

I know this is only scratching the surface of what Istanbul represents, and I’m so far from doing it any justice. Istanbul is an amazing destination, and it would be impossible for me to discover all its secrets and personality in only 3 days.

Good news though, it gives my wife and I another reason to go back.

Istanbul Resources:

Lonely Planet Guide book
Hostel reservations
Getting there

The post The Trouble With visiting Istanbul – 3 days is Not Enough! appeared first on Blaze Your Adventure.